Switzerland sighs in sympathy for Italy. Borders close. An uneasy spring begins.
Zurich, March 16, 2020
It is 11:00 AM. We are officially in lockdown as of today. My local supermarket, the Migros, is half-full of civil shoppers who keep their distance from each other as they purposefully gather what they need. All of our illusions that we will remain unscathed in our gated community have disappeared. All aspirations, at least mine, to “cook and eat seasonally” are out the window, too. I grab what I crave: a bunch of green asparagus from Spain.
Today, I am cooking an asparagus and potato tart as a way to connect with Liguria, which I may not be able to visit for several months to come. Traditionally, this pie would be made with green beans and the elusive scent of fresh marjoram would remind us of its roots.
Anywhere else in Italy, a “polpettone” is the word used for a meatloaf. The Genoese use the word “porpetton” to describe this dish, and also something boring. I can see how this “polpettone” might be considered rather tame. It will neither “explode in your mouth with flavour”, nor will it dazzle your guests with Mediterranean exotica. This is comfort home cooking, and a classic example of Ligurian ingenuity. Vegetables here become the main dish when you add little more than a few odds and ends found in the kitchen.
Notes:
I encourage you to be freewheeling with this recipe. By all means, increase the amount of asparagus ratio to the potato, and fiddle with the amount of eggs and cheese to your liking .
Add fresh herbs if you wish, but do not go overboard. This is not an Ottolenghi dish.
I used 75 g of fresh sheep cheese as a substitute for the traditional “quagliata”, because I was lucky enough to have it in the fridge. It is entirely optional.
This pie is best eaten on the day that it is made. However, I reheated it the next day and served it with roasted green beans and tomatoes. Not Ligurian fare, but a good accompaniment all the same.
List of Ingredients
1 kg of floury potatoes
Olive oil
750 grams asparagus
2 shallots
2 whole eggs
2 to 3 egg yolks
75 grams fresh sheep cheese
75 grams grated Parmigiano Reggiano
A few tablespoons of butter (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
Homemade breadcrumbs
Making the Tart
Boil the potatoes in their skins until they are soft, then peel while they are still warm. Pass them through a mouli or use a potato masher. Do not use a food processor or they will become gluey.
Remove the ends from the asparagus. Cut the spears into pieces no longer than 2.5 centimeters (1 inch) long.
Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a large sauté pan and soften the shallots. Add the asparagus, a little bit of salt and a scant cup of water. Cover, and cook over medium heat until the asparagus become bright green and are al dente. They should not be undercooked, but they do not have to be entirely soft, as they will continue to cook in the oven. Remove the lid and let some of the excess liquid boil away. A few tablespoons left is fine.
Whisk the whole eggs and 2 egg yolks in a bowl. Add the sheep cheese, Parmigiano and a few tablespoons of butter. Pour over the sieved potatoes and mix until incorporated. The mixture will not be loose. If you have not added the sheep cheese, it may feel really stiff. If so, add an extra egg yolk for good measure. Gently fold in the asparagus and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Oil a 26 centimeter (10 inch) springform pan with olive oil, then generously scatter the breadcrumbs on the bottom and around the sides of the pan. Shake out the excess. Spoon the polpettone mixture into the pan, then smooth the top with a spatula. Cover the top with more breadcrumbs and carefully spoon over a little bit more olive oil.
Bake on the middle rack of the oven preheated to 180°C for approximately 35 minutes.
Serve warm, or even at room temperature, but not piping hot.
