“It is all theft. Anyone who claims to have ‘invented’ a dish is dishonest or delusional or foaming.”
Jonathan Meades, from The Plagiarist in the Kitchen
In the past few years, many top food writers have been publishing cookbooks to help the beginner cook learn how to “wing it” in the kitchen without slavishly following a recipe. I own and treasure several of these books, but am still interested in a great recipe that has “rob and pillage me” written all over it.
Last spring, I made Dorie Greenspan’s “Green as Spring Soup” from her cookbook “Everyday Dorie” for a Sunday lunch at my friend Toby’s house. Watching everyone devour this cold asparagus soup in the most genteel manner possible, I knew that the looting would begin as soon as I got home.
As I sit at my desk a year later, I can count three things that I learned from her simple and straightforward recipe.
She softens leaks, shallots and garlic to begin her soup. These alliums politely accompany the asparagus instead of manhandling it the way the usual rough onion gets away with in so many other recipes.
She slips a zucchini squash in to intensify the soup’s green colour. You don’t taste it, but the trick works.
She uses lime as an acidic accent, and a little basil. When I first read this, I erroneously assumed that she was under pressure to be “innovative” and not repeat what has been transcribed thousands of times before. When you taste it, you don’t really care, as it is delicious. However, yesterday I cracked open The Flavor Bible and looked up “Asparagus” to check which other ingredients were considered compatible. Basil is listed, and here is a quote from chef Daniel Humm of New York’s Eleven Madison Park. “We season asparagus soup with lime because it is a stronger acid and yet has less flavor than lemon. If I use lemon to get as much acid as I need for the soup, I will need to use so much that the soup will taste lemony instead.” I stand corrected.
I will of course make her soup again and can also recommend her book “Around my French Table”. Spring in Switzerland blows hot and cold, and I developed another recipe inspired by her lessons. Yes, I am a plagiarist, but a guileless one who does not cover her tracks.
Asparagus soup with Parmigiano and Lemon
List of Ingredients
Serves 4
For the Asparagus Stock
All of the asparagus ends
1 small onion
A little bit of the leek greens
1 large carrot
1 stalk of celery
1 bay leaf
A few thyme sprigs
a little salt
For the soup:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium leaks, white and light green parts only, split lengthwise, washed sliced and patted dry
2 large shallots, rinsed and patted dry
1 clove of garlic, germ removed and sliced
2 tablespoons of rice
450 g of asparagus trimmed and peeled, bottom ends reserved one small zucchini around 120 g
A squeeze of lemon juice
Parmigiano Reggiano
More olive oil for drizzling
The Method
For the asparagus stock: Pour water over the ingredients just to cover and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, then strain. (This is done in 10 minutes in a pressure cooker.)
For the soup: Warm the olive oil in a Dutch oven over low heat. Add all of the alliums, a little salt and the rice. Cook, stirring occasionally for around 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are softened, but not colored.
Add the broth and bring to a boil. Toss in the asparagus and the zucchini and lower the heat. Allow the soup to simmer, uncovered for 10 minutes. The asparagus and zucchini should now be soft. Taste for salt and add pepper. Remove from the heat.
You now have a choice how to purée the soup. A mouli produces a very smooth result, but is quite labour intensive. I like to use a blender, and if I work in batches and run the machine longer than anyone in the room can stand it, no one can really tell that I haven’t used the former. A handheld immersion blender is better than the food processor, which just can’t quite do the job properly.
Squeeze in a few drops of lemon to taste and add salt if needed. Reheat and serve with Parmigiano, a drizzle of oil and toasted country bread.